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crepusculo) wrote2010-09-18 03:31 pm
crepusculo) wrote2010-09-18 03:31 pm
TUTORIALLLLL stuffff yeyuh
MANGA COLORING/ICON TUTORIAL
A few people were doing videos of this stuff so I thought I would ... join in asdkjsad EXCEPT I CAN'T MAKE A VIDEO so there's pictures instead.
A NOTE: I live to inconvenience myself. There are probably a thousand ways to do this more efficiently than this but I'm just going to make the tutorial based on how I honestly color LMFAO. Also, I use a tablet, and I'm pretty sure trying to color following this tutorial without a pressure sensitive tablet pen will not work very well.
ALSO I USE Photoshop CS4 but I believe this works for just about any recent version of Photoshop.
Also lots of big pictures ahead, beware.
SO YES. Here's the picture I'm going to be using as a sample (Halloween from Witch Hunter):
First things first -- make sure that your lines are on a separate layer than your color! I usually just keep the lines on one layer above the background, and use "Multiply" to make sure you can see everything on the background layer through the lines.
This tutorial requires vast knowledge of Kayla's Favorite Brushes. Those are the Airbrush Hard Round 9 and Airbrush Pen Opacity Flow 19. Obviously you can resize them, but I pretty much never use anything else when coloring. SO FIRST UP, pick the Airbrush Hard Round 9. (IGNORE THE YELLOW BOX, it's the one that's selected on the bottom left.)
I usually do the skin first (and usually it's what I spend the most time on when I color), so we'll do the skin first. First I'll pick a base color for the skin.
And then color all the places where it might be used in. I don't really worry about staying in the lines, I can go back and erase/correct later.
Now, pick a color to shade with. When it comes to skin, I usually pick a more reddish/pinkish color to complement the skin. I also go much darker than the skin color, as you can see in the comparison there.
Then, using Airbrush Hard Round 9, shade in all the places that .... you want to shade. LMAO. This particular picture already has tone where the author wanted shading, so that's a good hint. If you don't have that ... well, I don't like telling people to 'pick a light source' since there's rarely just ONE light source in real life. Except in professional photos and stuff. So usually, I just go by observation in looking at my own face or someone else's face as to where to shade. In the case of this picture, there'll be shading under her eyebrows, since eyebrows usually stick out a bit in comparison to the eyelid. Shading under the bangs, since they're in front of the face and cast a slight shadow on the face. Shading on the neck, since the head is bigger and will block out some of the light there. BLAH BLAH BLAH I could ramble about where exactly to shade forever - you just have to practice and see what looks 'right'. Here's what it should look like after you use that brush to fill in all the places you want to shade:
Now we're going to use Airbrush Pen Opacity Flow 19.
With that brush, you can go over where you've already shaded and add a lighter, softer edge to all your shadows, making it more like skin (since skin is soft!).
Now, usually I go back and use the eyedropper to select the original base color of the skin, and go back with the Opacity Flow brush and blend it back with the shading, until you get a good gradation that looks nice.
This part is optional, obviously, but I almost always do this when coloring. Skin is not the same color all over your body, obviously, so I like to add a little pink in. So pick a nice, not too bright and not too gray, pink:
And go in and add it in a few places. I usually put a little pink in the cheeks, nose, lips, collar bone, breasts, elbows, knees, fingertips, and knuckles. Again, still not worrying about staying in the lines, we can fix that later.
Then go back with the Hard Round brush (resized, of course) and add in a little shine over the pink with a very very light pink.
OKAY, now the skin is done! Now on to the eyes. I usually pick a bluish-gray color for the eyeballs.
So just fill that in, and then add some shading along the top!
And then color in the irises, and add a little shine where the light bubble is. I should also note here that I try to never, ever use pure white or pure black when actually coloring a person in. I also don't use straight up grey of any shade, either, because grey always has a tinge of some sort of color!
Quickly colored in the fur and the other grayish trim and such on her outfit:
Now, for coloring in the shiny dark fabric on her outfit. Pick a dark greyish color, not too dark. I picked one that was about 3/4 of the way down the scale of white to black.
Color in all the fabric on her that's black with the base color first.
Then, go back in with a darker grey and shade with the Hard Round brush. Since this fabric is shiny and not as soft as skin, the shading can be more abrupt and distinct.
Then I go back in and add a little bit darker of a grey to make for a better transition from the black already present, and some highlights where appropriate!
Colored in the pumpkin quickly ...
And the gloves ...
Now for the hair. Halloween has fairly short hair but sometimes hair can take me forever, depending on the style of the artist and how long/flowy it is. Coloring in with the base color first ...
Then pick a much darker shading color:
Now, I go in with the Hard Round brush (resized to 2 or 3 pixels usually) and kind of map out a general idea of how the hair is falling, using long strokes that follow how the hair is drawn. This is just to make it look more like hair and not ... some weird plastic thing sitting on her head.
Then, I use the Opacity Flow brush to kind of go over where I've place the lines to give it a general 'shaded' look.
Then do the same with the highlights! Again, avoiding using white. And ta-da, the picture is colored!
Now to make it into an icon. Crop however you like, of course! I tend to like having asymmetrically cropped stuff. You can also crop it how you like it before you color it (though with art with more detail, I'd recommend cropping it to something like 300x300 and then resizing to 100x100 after coloring), and I usually do that, but this time I decided to color the whole picture first, therefore wasting more effort than I had to. OH WELL.
Now for some actual layers! I've been using this effect on most of my icons lately. It actually works with most combinations of colors, as long as one is bright and one is very dark, so feel free to experiment :D First off I'll pick a bright pink color:
And fill up a new layer completely with this color. Then I set it to Overlay. The percentage of opacity varies, but it's rarely 100%. You can also experiment with this, too~ For this picture, though, I set it to 66%.
Then, make a new layer, and fill it with a different color. For this icon, I used a very dark blue. Because this is generally the color the lineart will usually take on, I try to avoid using anything too bright.
And then set this layer to "Exclusion"! The percentage can also vary for this, too.
And there you have it! An icon. :D
HOPEFULLY I EXPLAINED THAT CLEARLY .... 8D;
A few people were doing videos of this stuff so I thought I would ... join in asdkjsad EXCEPT I CAN'T MAKE A VIDEO so there's pictures instead.
A NOTE: I live to inconvenience myself. There are probably a thousand ways to do this more efficiently than this but I'm just going to make the tutorial based on how I honestly color LMFAO. Also, I use a tablet, and I'm pretty sure trying to color following this tutorial without a pressure sensitive tablet pen will not work very well.
ALSO I USE Photoshop CS4 but I believe this works for just about any recent version of Photoshop.
Also lots of big pictures ahead, beware.
SO YES. Here's the picture I'm going to be using as a sample (Halloween from Witch Hunter):
First things first -- make sure that your lines are on a separate layer than your color! I usually just keep the lines on one layer above the background, and use "Multiply" to make sure you can see everything on the background layer through the lines.
This tutorial requires vast knowledge of Kayla's Favorite Brushes. Those are the Airbrush Hard Round 9 and Airbrush Pen Opacity Flow 19. Obviously you can resize them, but I pretty much never use anything else when coloring. SO FIRST UP, pick the Airbrush Hard Round 9. (IGNORE THE YELLOW BOX, it's the one that's selected on the bottom left.)
I usually do the skin first (and usually it's what I spend the most time on when I color), so we'll do the skin first. First I'll pick a base color for the skin.
And then color all the places where it might be used in. I don't really worry about staying in the lines, I can go back and erase/correct later.
Now, pick a color to shade with. When it comes to skin, I usually pick a more reddish/pinkish color to complement the skin. I also go much darker than the skin color, as you can see in the comparison there.
Then, using Airbrush Hard Round 9, shade in all the places that .... you want to shade. LMAO. This particular picture already has tone where the author wanted shading, so that's a good hint. If you don't have that ... well, I don't like telling people to 'pick a light source' since there's rarely just ONE light source in real life. Except in professional photos and stuff. So usually, I just go by observation in looking at my own face or someone else's face as to where to shade. In the case of this picture, there'll be shading under her eyebrows, since eyebrows usually stick out a bit in comparison to the eyelid. Shading under the bangs, since they're in front of the face and cast a slight shadow on the face. Shading on the neck, since the head is bigger and will block out some of the light there. BLAH BLAH BLAH I could ramble about where exactly to shade forever - you just have to practice and see what looks 'right'. Here's what it should look like after you use that brush to fill in all the places you want to shade:
Now we're going to use Airbrush Pen Opacity Flow 19.
With that brush, you can go over where you've already shaded and add a lighter, softer edge to all your shadows, making it more like skin (since skin is soft!).
Now, usually I go back and use the eyedropper to select the original base color of the skin, and go back with the Opacity Flow brush and blend it back with the shading, until you get a good gradation that looks nice.
This part is optional, obviously, but I almost always do this when coloring. Skin is not the same color all over your body, obviously, so I like to add a little pink in. So pick a nice, not too bright and not too gray, pink:
And go in and add it in a few places. I usually put a little pink in the cheeks, nose, lips, collar bone, breasts, elbows, knees, fingertips, and knuckles. Again, still not worrying about staying in the lines, we can fix that later.
Then go back with the Hard Round brush (resized, of course) and add in a little shine over the pink with a very very light pink.
OKAY, now the skin is done! Now on to the eyes. I usually pick a bluish-gray color for the eyeballs.
So just fill that in, and then add some shading along the top!
And then color in the irises, and add a little shine where the light bubble is. I should also note here that I try to never, ever use pure white or pure black when actually coloring a person in. I also don't use straight up grey of any shade, either, because grey always has a tinge of some sort of color!
Quickly colored in the fur and the other grayish trim and such on her outfit:
Now, for coloring in the shiny dark fabric on her outfit. Pick a dark greyish color, not too dark. I picked one that was about 3/4 of the way down the scale of white to black.
Color in all the fabric on her that's black with the base color first.
Then, go back in with a darker grey and shade with the Hard Round brush. Since this fabric is shiny and not as soft as skin, the shading can be more abrupt and distinct.
Then I go back in and add a little bit darker of a grey to make for a better transition from the black already present, and some highlights where appropriate!
Colored in the pumpkin quickly ...
And the gloves ...
Now for the hair. Halloween has fairly short hair but sometimes hair can take me forever, depending on the style of the artist and how long/flowy it is. Coloring in with the base color first ...
Then pick a much darker shading color:
Now, I go in with the Hard Round brush (resized to 2 or 3 pixels usually) and kind of map out a general idea of how the hair is falling, using long strokes that follow how the hair is drawn. This is just to make it look more like hair and not ... some weird plastic thing sitting on her head.
Then, I use the Opacity Flow brush to kind of go over where I've place the lines to give it a general 'shaded' look.
Then do the same with the highlights! Again, avoiding using white. And ta-da, the picture is colored!
Now to make it into an icon. Crop however you like, of course! I tend to like having asymmetrically cropped stuff. You can also crop it how you like it before you color it (though with art with more detail, I'd recommend cropping it to something like 300x300 and then resizing to 100x100 after coloring), and I usually do that, but this time I decided to color the whole picture first, therefore wasting more effort than I had to. OH WELL.
Now for some actual layers! I've been using this effect on most of my icons lately. It actually works with most combinations of colors, as long as one is bright and one is very dark, so feel free to experiment :D First off I'll pick a bright pink color:
And fill up a new layer completely with this color. Then I set it to Overlay. The percentage of opacity varies, but it's rarely 100%. You can also experiment with this, too~ For this picture, though, I set it to 66%.
Then, make a new layer, and fill it with a different color. For this icon, I used a very dark blue. Because this is generally the color the lineart will usually take on, I try to avoid using anything too bright.
And then set this layer to "Exclusion"! The percentage can also vary for this, too.
And there you have it! An icon. :D
HOPEFULLY I EXPLAINED THAT CLEARLY .... 8D;
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